OK...I am a believer! If you want to make bread, get some bread flour.
See it's all about gluten. Gluten is the stuff that holds the bread together...kind of like glue, but it also makes the dough stretchy or elastic. Regular "all purpose" flour generally has 10-12% gluten protein, bread flour is more like 12.5-14%. So more gluten is more better right? Well I am thinking it depends, because it is possible to get flour with an even higher percentage of gluten protein, but the recipes in my book call for "bread flour". So it makes sense that as with most things it is all about having the right balance.
When I started this little bread making adventure we already had a big bag of King Author brand all purpose flour. I had read that King Author flour was a higher gluten flour, so I figure it is something like a 12%. My thinking was that this was almost the same as a bread flour so it should work fine. Upon reflection, I didn't take into account that the author was developing these recipes using a high quality bread flour. So his recipes are most likely expecting a bread flour on the higher end of the scale. In other words I was thinking I was only off by half a point when in reality I was probably off by more like two points.
So last night I started a batch of french bread using bread flour and everything worked more like the book describes. Something I really didn't expect was how much better it was at "doubling". I figure that has something to do with the elasticity part. Since the bread is more "stretchy" the yeast was able to perform better...it had more room to stretch out. I probably should have reflected on this a bit more when I decided that it might make things a bit easier if I just made one loaf...one HUGE loaf. My previous loafs have all seemed a bit small and I figured the full batch would give a loaf more like the loaves I see at the store. What I got instead is a loaf that is twice as big as those.
However, the biggest surprise is that it tastes better. Without a doubt we can thank the yeast for this too. More "fermentation"...more flavor. We are definitely getting close to something pretty great. I am also wondering how much less frustrating rustic bread would have been with the proper flour...not that I am ready to go down that read yet.
Anyway...buy some bread flour.
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
Monday, January 9, 2012
Into the Wild
Let's talk about micro-organisms...
So you have "quick breads' and "flat breads", but really...these are not bread. If someone says to you "hey you want some bread" and they hand you a pita, there is a good chance you are going to throw it at them. Of course there is a caveat...a big caveat...there are some regions of the world where bread is flat...all of it. So take note of the region you are in before you start playing frisbee with their "bread". I assume however if you are reading this particular blog then you are like me and when you say "bread" you want bread that has life.
So to give bread life we need yeast. The easy way to get life into our bread is to use a "commercial" yeast. Go to the store and pick it up in handy little packets that you dump into flour. The yeast that most people are familiar with is called active dry yeast. Essentially it is yeast that has been put into suspended animation. This gives it a pretty decent shelf life, you have to wake it up before you can actually use it and the process generally requires about 25% of the little guys to give up the ghost. The bread I have been making has all been made with instant yeast. Instant yeast is mostly alive, but it is also much more perishable. When you are looking at a bread recipe make sure you know what kind of yeast the recipe is expecting because you are going to need more active dry yeast than instant yeast.
But I digress...tonight we are going wild. I am sure most of you have heard of sourdough, but what makes sourdough different. Well, as you might have already figured, sourdough breads are made with wild yeast. The term "sourdough" is often used to describe any bread made with a wild yeast even when the bread isn't really sour. I haven't really wrapped my head around that bit just yet, so let's get on with rounding up some wild yeast.
First of all the way I understand it we don't actually have to catch the yeast, it is already hanging around in the flour. So we just have to give it a happy place to live and it will grow and multiple. I started the process of cultivating the little guys last with with some all purpose white flour. Apparently I didn't do a very good job at building the habitat because nothing happened...well actually something did happen, I grew mold.
Thinking that maybe the flour was the problem I started over with some organic whole wheat flour. Last night when I checked on it I found a stinky bubbly blob...in other words I had some happy yeast. At the current rate I should be able to take this starter and turn it into a mother by tomorrow night. The mother is our long term housing. With proper care mother will keep the whole colony happy indefinitely.
So in summary...this weekend we should be eating sourdough.
So you have "quick breads' and "flat breads", but really...these are not bread. If someone says to you "hey you want some bread" and they hand you a pita, there is a good chance you are going to throw it at them. Of course there is a caveat...a big caveat...there are some regions of the world where bread is flat...all of it. So take note of the region you are in before you start playing frisbee with their "bread". I assume however if you are reading this particular blog then you are like me and when you say "bread" you want bread that has life.
So to give bread life we need yeast. The easy way to get life into our bread is to use a "commercial" yeast. Go to the store and pick it up in handy little packets that you dump into flour. The yeast that most people are familiar with is called active dry yeast. Essentially it is yeast that has been put into suspended animation. This gives it a pretty decent shelf life, you have to wake it up before you can actually use it and the process generally requires about 25% of the little guys to give up the ghost. The bread I have been making has all been made with instant yeast. Instant yeast is mostly alive, but it is also much more perishable. When you are looking at a bread recipe make sure you know what kind of yeast the recipe is expecting because you are going to need more active dry yeast than instant yeast.
But I digress...tonight we are going wild. I am sure most of you have heard of sourdough, but what makes sourdough different. Well, as you might have already figured, sourdough breads are made with wild yeast. The term "sourdough" is often used to describe any bread made with a wild yeast even when the bread isn't really sour. I haven't really wrapped my head around that bit just yet, so let's get on with rounding up some wild yeast.
First of all the way I understand it we don't actually have to catch the yeast, it is already hanging around in the flour. So we just have to give it a happy place to live and it will grow and multiple. I started the process of cultivating the little guys last with with some all purpose white flour. Apparently I didn't do a very good job at building the habitat because nothing happened...well actually something did happen, I grew mold.
Thinking that maybe the flour was the problem I started over with some organic whole wheat flour. Last night when I checked on it I found a stinky bubbly blob...in other words I had some happy yeast. At the current rate I should be able to take this starter and turn it into a mother by tomorrow night. The mother is our long term housing. With proper care mother will keep the whole colony happy indefinitely.
So in summary...this weekend we should be eating sourdough.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Rustic Bread
It has not been a good day for baking...
First an update on "Batch #3". Things began to go wrong last night when I baked the second loaf and it came out flat. I am not entirely sure why, but I suspect that it didn't like spending a second night in the fridge. The yeast just didn't have enough oomph to give the loaf some "spring".
I figured I would make up for the failed loaf with a new batch of bread for today, so I started on the next recipe in the book...Rustic Bread. This recipe is what they call a wet dough or no knead. In other words it is a wet sticky mess that you couldn't knead if you wanted to. Prepping the dough was messy, but it did seem to go well enough even though I did all the mixing it by hand.
This morning the trouble started right away. When I got the dough out of the fridge it had not come anywhere close to doubling in size. So I let it sit out for an hour or so with no noticeable change in volume. I figured I should go ahead and get on with the shaping...
Shaping "wet dough"...is well, let's just say...I am try to figure out how to put this. OK, let me say it like this...I hate this bread. Seriously. I don't think this bread and I have any chance of being friends. Don't get me wrong, I know it's me not the bread, I am just not a wet dough kind of guy.
Anyway I eventually managed to make some loaf like shapes, and to get them in the oven. However, I was so frustrated after the shaping ordeal I forgot to put the baking stone in place so I had to bake the loafs on the cookie sheet and I think they came out a little under cooked. All of this trouble might have been worth it had this bread been something special, but it is really just average.
So where do I go from here...well the first step was to make a trip to the store today and pickup a bag of proper bread flour. I figure some of my issues are most certainly a result of not having the right kind of flour. And since I seem to have a pretty good relationship going with french bread I figure I will spend a little more time seeing where we can go together. Once I get to a point where I am not forgetting things like putting the baking stone in place maybe I can take another spin with the rustic...
First an update on "Batch #3". Things began to go wrong last night when I baked the second loaf and it came out flat. I am not entirely sure why, but I suspect that it didn't like spending a second night in the fridge. The yeast just didn't have enough oomph to give the loaf some "spring".
I figured I would make up for the failed loaf with a new batch of bread for today, so I started on the next recipe in the book...Rustic Bread. This recipe is what they call a wet dough or no knead. In other words it is a wet sticky mess that you couldn't knead if you wanted to. Prepping the dough was messy, but it did seem to go well enough even though I did all the mixing it by hand.
This morning the trouble started right away. When I got the dough out of the fridge it had not come anywhere close to doubling in size. So I let it sit out for an hour or so with no noticeable change in volume. I figured I should go ahead and get on with the shaping...
Shaping "wet dough"...is well, let's just say...I am try to figure out how to put this. OK, let me say it like this...I hate this bread. Seriously. I don't think this bread and I have any chance of being friends. Don't get me wrong, I know it's me not the bread, I am just not a wet dough kind of guy.
Anyway I eventually managed to make some loaf like shapes, and to get them in the oven. However, I was so frustrated after the shaping ordeal I forgot to put the baking stone in place so I had to bake the loafs on the cookie sheet and I think they came out a little under cooked. All of this trouble might have been worth it had this bread been something special, but it is really just average.
So where do I go from here...well the first step was to make a trip to the store today and pickup a bag of proper bread flour. I figure some of my issues are most certainly a result of not having the right kind of flour. And since I seem to have a pretty good relationship going with french bread I figure I will spend a little more time seeing where we can go together. Once I get to a point where I am not forgetting things like putting the baking stone in place maybe I can take another spin with the rustic...
Friday, January 6, 2012
Batch #3-1
At around 7:30 PM this evening the nagging stopped...we had a loaf of fresh french bread, a couple hours later there is less than 1/4 of the loaf left. Based on that I think this french bread recipe is a winner. I don't think that proofing the loafs in the fridge made any significant change to the crust and crumb, but it did make the baking bit pretty easy. When I got home from work I took the loaf out of the fridge and set it on the counter, and turned on the oven. An hour later the bread was baking. So in theory I could arrange for someone to take the dough out of the fridge and fire up the oven while I am driving home and speed things up even more...
Anyway, keeping in mind that the goal is to eventually "master" one of these recipes, this one is for sure a potential candidate. Thinking about it now though, ideally there will be two recipes that I attempt to master. One recipe that uses commercial yeast (like this one) and one sourdough. Of course making sourdough will depend on get a starter to start...more on that at some other time.
And it has already started up again..."When are you making more bread? This one is almost gone..."
<imagine a picture of the empty cutting board here>
Anyway, keeping in mind that the goal is to eventually "master" one of these recipes, this one is for sure a potential candidate. Thinking about it now though, ideally there will be two recipes that I attempt to master. One recipe that uses commercial yeast (like this one) and one sourdough. Of course making sourdough will depend on get a starter to start...more on that at some other time.
And it has already started up again..."When are you making more bread? This one is almost gone..."
<imagine a picture of the empty cutting board here>
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Batch #3
Everyday this week I have heard..."When are you making more bread?" So tonight I gave in and started a new batch. The book has a suggested variation for the french bread I made last time, so I figured I would give it a try. The change is to mix up the dough then let the bread proof at room temperature for 90 minutes, instead of parking it in the fridge. After it proofs, you shape the loafs, then figure out how to put two loaves of bread in the fridge. Now you need to find a nice comfy spot where they can double in size without smashing into something, and it would probably be a bad thing for stuff to fall on them...anyway if they survive the fridge, the nagging should end sometime tomorrow evening. Oh and something to take note of...shaping cold dough is quite a bit easier than shaping warm dough.
I haven't decided if I will just bake both loaves at the same time or save one for Sunday morning. Something that I eventually want to try is cooking a loaf in my Big Green Egg cooker. If you are not familiar with the "Egg", it is a wood fired ceramic grill/smoker/oven. In other words it should work pretty much like a real hearth style oven. The main concern is making sure that the bread doesn't get overwhelmed by smokiness. In theory the amount of time it will take to get all of the thermal mass heated up to around 550 degrees will burn off the smoke. And really once it is heated up enough the fire could be snuffed out and the bread would still bake from the radiant heat. Maybe I will pick up some charcoal this weekend and cook one of these loaves outside...
I haven't decided if I will just bake both loaves at the same time or save one for Sunday morning. Something that I eventually want to try is cooking a loaf in my Big Green Egg cooker. If you are not familiar with the "Egg", it is a wood fired ceramic grill/smoker/oven. In other words it should work pretty much like a real hearth style oven. The main concern is making sure that the bread doesn't get overwhelmed by smokiness. In theory the amount of time it will take to get all of the thermal mass heated up to around 550 degrees will burn off the smoke. And really once it is heated up enough the fire could be snuffed out and the bread would still bake from the radiant heat. Maybe I will pick up some charcoal this weekend and cook one of these loaves outside...
Monday, January 2, 2012
French Bread - Part 2
This morning I baked the second loaf of french bread...overall uneventful. However I didn't get a crispy crust like I wanted. When it came out of the oven it felt like it was going to be crispy, but once it cooled it was soft. Not sure what I am missing. The flavor of the this loaf seems to be exactly the same as the first, so I don't think there were any real issues with the primary fermentation of the first loaf. At this point I am pretty sure that the first loaf was just a bit smaller.
OK, so at this point I am already making good bread, but...I still don't think it is great bread. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't be ashamed to serve this bread to anyone, but I doubt it would leave a long lasting impression. The next recipe in the book is "Rustic Bread". It includes instructions for turning it into ciabatta or focaccia and is very similar to the recipe for pizza dough. This sounds like the kind of recipe that would be good to know.
However...to really get into some really interesting flavor, I think we are going to have to explore the wild yeast option...aka sourdough. For sourdough the first step is to make a starter. It takes about 6 days to build a starter and then another day or so to turn the starter into the mother. Once you have your mother you are ready to make some sourdough. Since today is the last day of vacation I expect it will be a couple weeks before the oven sees a loaf of sourdough. Even though the book says "artisan breads every day", I am not sure that I will be up for any weekday baking just yet.
Oh yeah...when building the starter up to a mother you only use half of the starter, so you are supposed to throw out the other half or pass it along to someone...just figured I would put that out there in case anyone is interested.
OK, so at this point I am already making good bread, but...I still don't think it is great bread. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't be ashamed to serve this bread to anyone, but I doubt it would leave a long lasting impression. The next recipe in the book is "Rustic Bread". It includes instructions for turning it into ciabatta or focaccia and is very similar to the recipe for pizza dough. This sounds like the kind of recipe that would be good to know.
However...to really get into some really interesting flavor, I think we are going to have to explore the wild yeast option...aka sourdough. For sourdough the first step is to make a starter. It takes about 6 days to build a starter and then another day or so to turn the starter into the mother. Once you have your mother you are ready to make some sourdough. Since today is the last day of vacation I expect it will be a couple weeks before the oven sees a loaf of sourdough. Even though the book says "artisan breads every day", I am not sure that I will be up for any weekday baking just yet.
Oh yeah...when building the starter up to a mother you only use half of the starter, so you are supposed to throw out the other half or pass it along to someone...just figured I would put that out there in case anyone is interested.
Saturday, December 31, 2011
French Bread - Part 1
December 30, 2011 - French Bread...flour, water, yeast, salt.
The French Bread recipe is very similar to the Lean Bread, more salt and less water. There is also some slight variations in the technique. Mixing starts the same, this time using the dough hook instead of the paddle, and it worked much better. Then he wants us to do some hand kneading...I am thinking "I have a fancy mixer why do I need to get my hands all gummed up?". OK...so I was wrong, not about the gummy hands...that is definitely something to work on. Also the dough sticking to the table, but it really was nice to work the dough...with my gummy hands even.
Another interesting thing with this recipe...for some reason the last step reads a lot clearer to me...it says if you aren't going to bake everything at once divide it now and stick it in the fridge overnight. This actually was a bit of a hiccup because first of all I only have one glass bowl that I figured to be big enough to hold the doubled up dough. So I put half of it in a stainless steel mixing bowl. Next I didn't have room on the shelf for both bowls, so the stainless bowl went in the crisper. This morning it appeared that the dough in the glass bowl was significantly bigger than the metal bowl. Either of these variations could have caused the difference or it could be there was no difference and not being able to see into the bowl from the side distorted things. Also I just eyeballed "half" so it is possible that there was just less dough in the metal bowl. I am not really stressing about it, but I am looking into getting two matching "fermentation vessels".
The French Bread recipe is very similar to the Lean Bread, more salt and less water. There is also some slight variations in the technique. Mixing starts the same, this time using the dough hook instead of the paddle, and it worked much better. Then he wants us to do some hand kneading...I am thinking "I have a fancy mixer why do I need to get my hands all gummed up?". OK...so I was wrong, not about the gummy hands...that is definitely something to work on. Also the dough sticking to the table, but it really was nice to work the dough...with my gummy hands even.
Another interesting thing with this recipe...for some reason the last step reads a lot clearer to me...it says if you aren't going to bake everything at once divide it now and stick it in the fridge overnight. This actually was a bit of a hiccup because first of all I only have one glass bowl that I figured to be big enough to hold the doubled up dough. So I put half of it in a stainless steel mixing bowl. Next I didn't have room on the shelf for both bowls, so the stainless bowl went in the crisper. This morning it appeared that the dough in the glass bowl was significantly bigger than the metal bowl. Either of these variations could have caused the difference or it could be there was no difference and not being able to see into the bowl from the side distorted things. Also I just eyeballed "half" so it is possible that there was just less dough in the metal bowl. I am not really stressing about it, but I am looking into getting two matching "fermentation vessels".
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